Pune: In a remarkable achievement for Indian mountaineering, Jitendra Gaware, a veteran climber from the Pune-based adventure group Giripremi, has successfully summited Makalu — the fifth-highest mountain in the world at 8,485 meters. With this feat, Gaware becomes the first Maharashtrian to conquer seven of the world’s fourteen peaks that rise above 8,000 meters.
Makalu, located on the Nepal-China border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, lies just 19 kilometers from Mount Everest. The peak is known for its treacherous rock-and-ice terrain, brutally cold winds, and sharply inclined ridges — making it one of the most technically difficult climbs in the world. Temperatures on the mountain often drop to -35°C to -40°C.
Gaware began the ascent last month and achieved the summit at 4:50 AM on Saturday, May 10. His current list of 8,000-meter summits includes Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna I, and now, Makalu.
Speaking about the achievement, Giripremi spokesperson Bhushan Harshe noted that Gaware has been associated with the organisation for over a decade. “Jitendra is a disciplined and dedicated mountaineer. He typically undertakes two to three major climbs every year. Conquering Makalu is a significant milestone and further establishes his place among the elite climbers in India,” Harshe said.
Gaware has previously been awarded the prestigious Shiv Chhatrapati Award by the Government of Maharashtra for his contributions to adventure sports.
Next Target: China
Globally, there are 14 mountains above 8,000 meters, often referred to as the “eight-thousanders.” With seven already behind him, Gaware is now eyeing two more located in China, which are accessible to Indian climbers. The remaining five lie in Pakistan-occupied Kashmir, where access is currently restricted.
If successful in summiting the two peaks in China, Gaware will become one of the very few mountaineers worldwide — and the only Maharashtrian — to have climbed nine of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. His mission continues to inspire countless young adventure seekers across India.
